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Which motorcycle should I buy?

 

Most motorcyclists can spend hours talking about favourite bikes or reminiscing about their first, but when it comes to choosing your own then it's really down to you.  One thing is for sure: the more you change your mind about what you want, the more it will cost you.  So try to buy something that will last you a while rather than trading in ever few months.

Although there's a huge number of bikes available, there are a number of things which will limit your choice from a practical and legal view point.  This guide will hopefully help you decide on the right sort of bike for you. 

The not so humble moped

So you've just turned 16, got your provisional licence, taken your Compulsory Basic Training and are keen to get your hands on your first bike.  As a 16 year old you'll be restricted to a moped with an engine no bigger than 50 cc and a maximum speed of 30 Mph (50 Kph).  If you are 17+ and hold a full car licence, you will more than likely have full moped entitlement.  This means you don't even need basic training.  However, we think it is useful none the less and does allow you to ride a bike up to 125 cc as a learner.  At the end of the day, unless you are 16 - do you really want to be stuck at 30 mph? We all know that few drivers stick to 30 mph no matter what the speed limit is, so you'll constantly have people squeezing past you or treating you as a bicycle.

The humble moped has come a long way since the original pedal start bikes, which were little more than a bicycle with a motor.  Most modern mopeds feature electric start, excellent styling and reliable engines.  Almost all moped are two strokes, which basically means you need to check/add two stroke oil every time you fill up.  Many unrestricted 50 cc mopeds can manage over 50 Mph, although you'd need to be 17+, hold a provisional motorcycle licence (and have a valid CBT) to legally ride one.  A reasonable used moped will cost around £400 up (private).  If you are looking for a good used bike, budget around £1,200.  Some of the new race replica 50cc bikes cost up to £2,600 new, which to be honest is at least £500-600 worth of branding and race pedigree, that you will just not be able to experience in a 50cc package.

There are essentially 4 types of moped to choose from:

Scooter - Currently the most popular.  These bikes are nippy, light, reliable and practical.  Most have automatic transmission (twist 'n' go) and often feature built in locks, disc brakes and plenty of storage e.g. the Beta Eikon 50.
Practical, stylish, easy to ride, comfortable and fairly quick.
Lack of road presence, Step through bikes are not everyone's taste

Cut down commuter - Very popular in the 80s the cut down commuter was often a 50 cc version of a bigger bike and featured a manual gearbox with a more traditional step over motorcycle design.
Conventional riding position, manual gearbox and very cheap to buy
Dated design, surpassed by the modern scooter

Race Replica -  Ultimate sports bike with a 50 cc engine? Not quite, they may look the part, but that's about it. If you take into account the high purchase price and above average depreciation, you'll realise that unless you plan to de-restrict it, there really isn't much point.
Great handling, sport styling and good road presence
No faster than a scooter but with higher running costs and expensive parts

Trials Bike - Louder than a Harley, these light weight off road bikes often come in either road legal trim or off road only (conversions can be expensive).  Most have a taller riding position and a manual gearbox. However, the deep tread tyres can cause a lot of vibration and poor handling when riding on the road.
Great fun off road, ideal for the taller rider, with fairly good road presence.
Noisy and not particularly practical if you only intent to ride on the road.
 

50 cc - 125 cc Lightweight Motorcycles

Many 17 year olds opt for a car nowadays and its fairly obvious why. - The power restrictions for young motorcyclists are far more limiting than cars.  However, you can't drive a car on your own as learner which seems to be the key attraction for most young riders.  There's a lot to choose from in the 50 - 125 cc range.  Many bikes available in 50 cc also have bigger brothers in either 100 cc or 125 cc models.  A Typical 125 is designed to meet the legal restrictions for the light/learner legal motorcycle category, which means they'll do about 50 - 70 Mph, have around 12 - 14.6 BHP and can do about 80 - 120 MPG.  If you intend to buy a learner legal motorcycle to take your test on, make sure you buy a 125 cc bike, as taking your test on a smaller bike (75 cc - 120 cc) restricts you to the A1 Light motorcycle licence.  This means you will only be able to ride machines up to 125 cc.  To be perfectly honest this is a waste of time as the test is identical to that of the 125 cc test which allows you to ride a wider range of bikes and potentially any bike after 2 years.

It's worth noting that while a race replica 50 cc bike is largely a waste of money, it's 125 cc bigger brother may actually make more financial sense.  As a 17 - 21 year old you'll be restricted to a 33 BHP (25 kW and a power-to-weight ratio not exceeding 0.16kW/kg) bike for 2 years after passing your test.  In most cases that means one bike to learn on and a new one after you've passed.  A good Race Replica like the Cagiva Mito 125, Aprilia RS 125 Honda NSR 125 or Yamaha TZR 125 will conform to the lightweight category in restricted mode, but can produce around 30 BHP in de-restricted form.  That means it has the potential to last you a lot longer, which will ultimately save you money.  However, you do have to balance this with higher insurance cost, as Race replicas are not the cheapest to insure.  125 cc bikes start at around £500, something like a recent Honda CG125 or Yamaha SR 125, will cost about £900-1400 private.  Race Replica 125s range from 1800-2500.

One bike for both learners and restricted licence holders

If you're going to take your test on one, make sure you can do a U-turn on it and that you can prove it complies with the learner legal requirement (i.e. less than 14.6 BHP rather that 30+ BHP).

In 125 cc trim, there is also a new category of bike:

Small cc cruiser.  These typically range from a commuter based bike like the Yamaha SR125, to the more typical cruiser like the Honda shadow 125, which features one of the smallest V-twin engines in production.  Many features of larger capacity cruisers are included such as low seat, feat forward ride and classic styling. Classic Harley looks in a small package, comfortable and economical
Not the fastest or lightest 125 you can buy.

2 Stroke vs. 4 Stroke

There are obvious mechanical differences between 2-stroke and 4-stroke engines.  The main concern to the rider is that a 4-stroke engine gets its oil from a sump during a lubrication cycle, while a 2-stroke needs oil mixed with the fuel.  If you own a 4-stroke you'll need to change the oil at service intervals and only put unleaded in the tank, while a 2-stroke will normally have a separate 2-stroke oil tank which should be kept topped up at fuel stops.  Most 50 cc bikes use 2-stroke engines, because they are light and powerful.  The down side is that the oil/petrol mix results in a slightly smoky burn, which is not too environmentally friendly (though nowhere near as bad as a car).  While there have been some fairly large 2-stroke engines (350 cc and 500 cc), most larger engines (125 cc +) use the more reliable and easier to maintain 4-stroke engine, which does not require an oil/petrol mix.

33 bhp restriction

Most people are now aware that if you take your motorcycle test on a 125 cc bike, you'll be restricted to a bike with no more than 33 BHP for the first 2 years.  The rule was introduce to stop inexperienced young riders from going out after their test and buying the fastest two wheeled rocket they can find and killing themselves.  The aim is simply to keep the highest risk riders off of the highest risk bikes.  It's questionable how effective this is, as most 17 year olds would have difficulty getting insurance for an R1 or Hayabusa even if they were legally allowed to ride it.  The downside is that it has excluded a lot people from buying bigger bikes simply because they can't afford direct access or are too short to manage the school bikes.

So if you can't get an R1, what can you get?  We frequently get asked which bikes meet the restricted criteria and how restricted they actually feel.  Firstly, any bike can be restricted to 33 BHP for around £90 to £150, so being restricted in power doesn't have to affect your choice and don't forget when the 2 years are up, you can have the kit removed.  However, there are a number of practicalities that you should consider:
 

• Design - The manufacturer may have designed the bike with a lot more power in mind, so when restricted, you could be lugging a lot of tolerance that you simply don't need.  A recent review of a Suzuki Hayabusa restricted to 33 BHP, described it as a virtually unusable.
• Costs - Insurance companies don't pay much attention to a restriction, they see it as a license requirement and rarely adjust the rating by much.  Therefore a 600 cc sports bike will cost a lot more than a 250 cc sports bike even though it has the same power and could even be slower.

Keep the torque

One point worth noting, is that the restriction only refers to max. BHP, there is no limit on torque.  Typically the higher a motor revs, the more BHP it produces, while the max. torque is achieved very early on in the bikes rev range.  Therefore if you choose an engine with a lot of torque (like a V-twin) and restrict it, you'll find much of it's torque intact.For this reason, V-twins (like the Yamaha Virago or Suzuki SV650) are some of the most popular restricted options.  So while the top end power may be limited, the bike will still feel strong and smooth at low revs.

If you don't want to go for a restricted bike, there are plenty of bikes in the 125 cc - 400 cc range that produce less than 33 BHP.  As a guide, most de-restricted race replica bikes can produce around 30BHP, a 250 cc commuter bike will produce 20 - 25 BHP and even some 400 cc scooters can comply with the 33 BHP limit.

You should note however that most of the 125 cc race replica two stokes don't comply with the power to weight ratio requirements for the restricted licence at full power due to their low weight.

According to the DSA the power to weight ratio', in relation to a motorcycle, means the ratio of the maximum net power output of the engine of the vehicle to its weight (including the weight of any side-car) with: A full supply of fuel in the tank, an adequate supply of other liquids needed for its propulsion, and no load other than its normal equipment, including loose tools.

This can be described as it's curb weight and should not be confused with it's dry weight, which may be 15-25ks lower.  Any bike producing near the 33BHP limit will need a curb weight of 155kg or more. 

Un-restricted motorcycle licence

Whether you've recently completed a Direct Access course, served your restriction period or passed your test before the licence change, holding a category A Motorcycle licence entitles you to ride any bike you choose.  Many direct access students are keen to choose bikes which will enable them to continue learning on without being too uncontrollable and typically opt for a bike in the 400 cc - 750 cc range.

One of the key things you will notice is the wide choice of bikes available.  Learner legal bikes tend to go for a premium due to the high number of young riders looking for bikes.  Once you've broken away from this class you will find plenty to choose from.  Few bikes that don't have serious problems go for less than £1000.  However, you will find a huge number of bikes from 3-10 years old between £1000 and £2500.  New Budget 600cc bikes typically start around £4,000, which helps to keep used prices low.

 So what's out there in the middleweight category?

Types

All round Commuter 

Reliability, comfort and no frills design coupled with fair power output and good economy describes most all round commuter bikes. Normally a parallel twin 500 cc motor knocking out about 50 - 60 BHP, with the best examples: being Honda's CB500, Kawasaki's GPz500 and Suzuki’s GS500. 

+ Cheap, reliable and economical, the All rounder will give you a gentle introduction to large bikes.
- Parallel twins aren't the smoothest, if you're keen to develop, you may out grow it quickly.

Naked Classic 

The Suzuki Bandit (GSF600) fits nicely in this class, with hot competition from Yamaha's Fazer, Honda's Hornet (CB600F) and of course Ducati's Monster.  Most bikes have 80 - 95 BHP do around 130 Mph and manage about 40 - 50 Mpg.  Many bikes are also available with some sort of fairing.
+ Fast, fun and reminiscent of yesterdays bikes.  Many share parts with other sports models.
- Lack of fairing can be uncomfortable for high speed (motorway) riding.

Sports tourer 

Often yesterday's sports bikes, the mid-range sport tourer category describes bikes which are either too heavy or under powered to compete as sports bikes or those which are designed to be a good compromise of comfort and handling.  They'll often share parts with the previous category and have similar performance.  Although the full fairing normally increases the top end a bit.  Good examples are Kawasaki's ZZR600 (sports bike of the early 90s) and Suzuki’s GSX600F (based on the GSXR of the mid 80s).  Reasonably priced these models offer a good combination of comfort and sports ability.  There are also a handful of V-twins which fit somewhere between here and the sports category.
+ A good introduction to sports bikes and ideal for occasional two up touring
- slower than a sports bike and less comfortable than a tourer.

Sports 

The most competitive market sector by far is the 600 cc sports bike category.  Almost every manufacturer has at least one model which fits into this class.  Most models are designed as a compromise between track tool and road racer and will often share styling and components with bigger ultimate sports models.  A modern sports 600 has to be well under 200 Kg, produce 110 - 120 BHP and do 160+ Mph.  It's difficult to say which are the best models, but the most popular seem to be Honda's CBR600F, Yamaha's R6, Suzuki’s GSXR600 and Kawasaki's ZX6R (Ninja).  However, triumph TT600 seems to have a cult following and offers an exceptional sports package from a traditionally British manufacturer.
+ Llightweight with bags of power, yet lower running costs than bigger sports bikes
- Can be expensive to insure and uncomfortable for passengers or long journeys.

Middleweight Cruisers

600 cc is really the entry level for serious cruisers, although there are a couple of 125 and 250 cc options.  Cruisers are proof that motorcycling isn't just about speed.  Most are comfortable to ride and have excellent road presence.  Typified by big V-twin engines which give effortless boulevard cruising ability.  The middleweight category is dominated by the Japanese.  You have to go all the way up to 800 cc before getting to the entry level Harley Davidson.
+ Effortless relaxed riding, ideal for shorter riders.
- Can be a hell of a lot of chrome to clean

Quicker, Bigger, Better

If you've been riding a while or fancy your chances with something a bit bigger than a middle weight, you'll find plenty in the 750 + category.  Typically these bikes cost a bit more to insure, but the increased power can be worth it.

Super Sports 

Unlike the 600 cc market, super sports have to search a little harder to find there customers, as on paper there is often not much difference between the 600 cc model.  However, they'll often be significant technical changes, different suspension and brakes, in addition to a larger engine etc. The net result is often more of a track oriented bike.  In the 80s it was common for a 600 cc sports bike to out handle the larger 1100 cc model.  Occasionally they'd even out perform them when it came to practical road conditions.  However, that seems to have changed with modern sports bikes, as many of the high end bikes are particularly nimble and lightweight, despite their large motor.  Top of the pile in the super sports seems to be the Suzuki GSXR1000, which is close to 1 bhp per kg.  This is followed by the Yamaha R1, Honda Fireblade (CBR900RR) and the Kawasaki ZX9R.

Big Twins

Competition in the 1000 cc v-twin class has recently hotted up.  Previously, Ducati and Aprilia had dominated this market with their 996 and RSV race derived sports bike range, although Suzuki attempted to capture some of the market with their TL1000S and TL1000R.  Honda also launched the VTR Firestorm, which met the big TL1000S head on, but failed to take on Aprillia and Ducati.  Neither model gained popularity, mainly because they didn't fit within an existing category.  Too impractical (short tank range, sports type riding position) to be a sports tourer and lack of full fairing limited sports bike appeal.  However, Honda addressed this by launching the SP-1 and the SP-2 (2002 model) which has had success rivalling the big names in sports v-twins.  Yamaha and Kawasaki don't have models in this market (apart from the Yamaha TDM which is a parallel twin), it is also rumoured that Suzuki stopped their TLR for fear that it might compete with the GSXR1000 too much.  However, they recently remodelled it as an SV1000 to be the logical big brother to the popular SV 650.  Key advantage of a big twin over an inline four, is the huge torque produced at low revs, although top end power is usually a little lower (140bhp vs 165bhp).

Other combinations 

Honda also offer a v4 in the shape of the VFR800, which attempts to combine the benefits of a V configuration, with 4 cylinders.  it is also rumoured that they are working on a 5 cylinder version for the Fireblade replacement.  Triumph have also had success with their 3 cylinder range 955i and speed triple which offers a good balance of torque and high end power.

Sports Tourers 

The sports tourer market has huge appeal after the ultra competitive 600cc sports market.  Sports tourers aim to deliver the sports bike package with a little comfort at the same time.  The Honda VFR800 set the benchmark for sports tourers and is a good example of how a bike ends up as a sports tourer.  Traditionally yesterdays super sports bikes end up slightly softened and de-tuned in sports tourer market, as they are no longer powerful or light enough to compete with the latest crop.  The VFR owes much of it's heritage to the the race bikes of the late 80s and early 90s.  Likewise you now start to see the Honda Firestorm pushed into this market by the Newer SP-1 and SP-2.  Yamaha's Thundercat and 'race also now line in the sports tourer market, replaced by the R6 and R1 respectively.

However the European manufacturers often release their sports bike derived sports tourers in harmony, which helps to capture the market of those who want 85% of the current sports bike ability in a package that is comfortable two up: Ducati's 996 based ST-4,  Aprillia's Futura and Falco, and Triumph's 955 Sprint ST and RS,  All share a lot of the R&D effort applied to their sportier counterparts.

+ Faster than a Super car, these adrenaline pumping, track tools are perfect for any would be Carl Fogarty
- Expensive to own, run and insure, with fickle manufactures constantly bring out improved models

Tourers 

Once you start looking in the 900+ cc range, you'll notice a new range of bikes which are extremely popular with emergency services, training schools and some motorcycle couriers.  These bikes offer the ultimate in comfort and equipment and often feature Shaft drive, linked brakes, ABS and occasionally traction control.  With huge road presence and motors capable of very high mileage, the dominant models seem to be most of BMW’s range, Honda's Pan European, and a couple of models from Triumph and Yamaha.
+ The Mercedes of the bike world offering the ultimate in comfort and equipment
- Despite the big motors many can feel a bit slow and heavy

Muscle Bikes

Big motors, bags of torque and as aerodynamic as a house brick, Muscle bikes are the definitive wheelie kings of the road.  The Yamaha V-Max was the most popular for many years, but now this market seems to be hotting up, with models from Suzuki (GSF1200 , and Honda (X-11).  These bikes tend not to go for high top speeds, but have extremely good acceleration.  In 2001 watch out also for yamaha's new R1 powered Fazer 1000, which should hot up the competition even more.
+ The ultimate in your face power, these bikes boast some impressive performance often on a budget
- Lack of fairing means high speed cruising is impractical, can be a bit too eager to wheelie.

The Ultimate Ride

At the very top of every range you'll find the manufacturer's claim of the ultimate ride.  You may be into the fastest, biggest or most expensive.  The ultimate ride is usually accompanied with the ultimate price.  Here's the run down.


What's the fasted?  Currently the Suzuki Hayabusa (GSXR1300) holds this prize.  The stock Machine can manage a whopping 196 Mph, closely followed by Kawasaki's ZX12R at 194 Mph and Honda's CBR1100XX Blackbird.

What's the Biggest? You might have thought that the Honda Goldwing, with it's  1800 cc V6 Engine, is the biggest production bike on the market.  However, in late 2003 Triumph launched the Rocket III.  This bike features a massive 2.3 litre, 3 cylinder motor with piston sizes similar to the Dodge Viper sports car.  The bike is relatively lightweight at 320kgs (lighter than the Electra-glide and the Goldwing), which means it can easily out drag any other bike off the lights including the Hayabusa.  The fattest of cruisers typically lugs a 1500 cc motor, while almost all Harley’s have engines well over 1.2 litres.  There are of course some limited edition bikes such as the Boss Hoss, which features a V8 Chevy engine.  Despite a complete lack of fairing, it can manage over 160mph (but probably not for very long, without refuelling)..

 

Parallel & Grey Imported motorcycles

 
Grey import:  For every 600 cc model bike there is normally a 400 cc (and sometimes a 250 cc) equivalent, which has been designed to comply with another countries motorcycle licence restrictions.  There are literally dozens of 400 cc models including a Bandit, VFR, CBR and ZXR (official UK model).  These bikes will do about 120+ Mph and produce around 50 - 60 BHP.  Bikes destined for America, Germany and some other countries (not just 400cc either) may have emission controls, power restrictions and headlight modifications not required (or necessarily desired) in the UK Market.  Japanese imports often have lower powerred headlights (35-45w rather than 55-60w).   Some of these can be expensive to correct.  When considerring a grey import it is better to go after those that are most popular.  This helps to secure decent parts availability and mechanical knowledge.

+ Ideal for shorter riders as they often have a lower seat and lightweight handling.
- Watch out for unusual restrictions and expensive, rare, parts

Parallel Imports:  The once thriving parallel import industry boomed when official UK prices were ridiculously high, compared with Europe.  Although UK importers have realised the threat from parallel imports, you'll still find many up to 20% cheaper.  Unlike a grey import, a parallel will be similar to an official import, but my need a KPH - MPH and headlight conversion.  In the strictest form a Parallel import should be full UK specification, just not imported via the official UK importer and sold through an official dealer.  However, most manufacturers will not supply UK bikes via the back door in this way.  Therefore strictly speaking few true parallel bikes exist.  New Parallel imports (sourced from Europe) should have the same manufacturers warranty as an official UK bike.  However, you may need to be proactive about recalls and warranty work, as the manufacturer may not necessarily know where the bike is.

+ Cheaper than an official UK bike, but personally I'd go for a pre-reg over a parallel.
- Lower re-sale price and subtle name differences

Buying your first motorcycle

Once you've worked out what type of bike you want, you need to decide if you are going to buy new, or second hand.  For many of us our budget determines what we can afford.  Here are a couple of tips which we hope will help you find a decent bike at a competitive price.

Buying a new motorcycle

There is nothing better than being the first owner of a new bike, but that privilege comes at a price.  While it is true that motorcycles depreciate a lot more gradually than cars, you will loose at least 15% as soon as you've ridden it out of the dealers show room.  If it's your first ever bike, then the likelihood of you having a minor drop in your first few weeks of riding is pretty high.  This will dramatically affect the bike resale price.  If you're going to buy new make sure you intend to keep it for a few years to ensure you spread your initial loss.

Key tips and gotchas

Shop around 

There are hundreds of dealers offering all sort of bargains, check out your local yellow pages or Motorcycle press to find dealers.  Phone them and ask for their ‘best price’.

Test Ride

If you're not 100% sure of the model arrange a test ride.  Be sure to ride a variety of roads including round town and fast A roads.  Aim to ride for at least 30 minutes to be sure the bike is comfortable and what you want.

Negotiate

It is rare that bikes are so in demand that you can't knock 10% off the list price.  Haggle the price down and then see what extras they'll throw in.  Don’t get hooked with a load of stuff that you already have or don't need though.  Use the internet to email dealers your requirements to see if they'll price match.

Finance

Many finance packages have very high interest rates, if you've got good credit, but need to pay on finance be sure that your £6,000 bike wont cost you £12,000 after the finance.  Check with your bank or credit card, to see if you can't get a better deal.

Interest free credit

If you're offered 6 months free credit don't be tempted to pay off in instalments  there after.  APRs can be as high as 29% after the initial 0% free period.  Also check for arrangement fees etc.

Free insurance

Check that any no claims bonus you build up with free insurance, can be transferred after the first free year.

Timing

The best prices can be had September to January, with December offering the best bargains.  However, most bikers know this so end of season models tend to get snapped up before the end of the year.  Conversely if you're looking in june-August, expect to have a harder time getting a discount.  That said, there's no point buying a bike in October and keeping it in the garrage all winter.

Specification

If you're paying top price make sure you're getting the latest model.  Your dealer may be selling off last years model, which may only have a slight change, but it will affect the resale price.  Alternatively why not go for last year's model you can often save around 20%.

Pre-Registration

A Pre-reg is a bike that is first registerred to the dealer, so you are affectively the second owner.  This allows the dealer to get round discount limits, increase sales and avoid new legislation from time to time.  A pre-reg should be brand new with delivery only mileage.  When the V5 comes through you will be listed as the second owner, for that you can expect a heafty discount.

Ex-Demo

The idea of a pre-run in bike at significantly reduced price is tempting.  However, few demonstrators are properly run in and may have been given a good thrashing by potential buyers (and time wasters) this may affect the long term reliability of the bike.  You also have to treat it as used, so look for damage etc.  On the plus side you'll get a nearly new bike for a lot less with almost a full warranty.

Free lessons

Some dealers offer free introductory lessons.  If you need a CBT check that this is what they are offering, if it's a motorcycle appreciation course check that it's run by a reputable group.  There are currently no official advanced teaching qualifications, but a Police class 1 rider, RoSPA diploma holder or IAM qualified observer will have passed an advanced test and undergone assessments.

Extras

Ensure the price you pay includes any additional security features, road tax, number plates and fuel.

Lastly

Check the bike over very carefully, look for damage, scratches and signs that the pre-delivery inspection was not caried out (fluid levels etc.) BEFORE you leave the shop.  It will be much harder to resolve these once you've left.

Buying used or second hand

Most dealers will also have a range of second hand bikes or trade-ins for sale.  The price wont be as low as if you bought privately, but a reputable dealer will:

• Allow you to test ride it without arranging your own insurance.
• offer a warranty or service package.
• Ensure that the bike is not stolen and has no outstanding finance.
• Be required to adhere to the appropriate consumer protection laws e.g the Trades Descriptions Act and Sale and Supply of Goods Act.

Even though you're buying from a dealer you will need to check the specification over.  Ask if there have been any modifications (e.g. race exhausts) as these are common on older bikes and will affect your insurance and the bike may even fail an MOT.  The dealer may not be prepared to refit original parts.

Buying at Auction

If you are prepared to take a bit of a gamble and are not too fussed about the type of bike you go for, you may want to try an auction.  Some car auctions also sell bikes and these can often be worth a try.  Few car dealers will touch a bike at an auction, so the competition at auction will be less.  That said, if bike under auction is a private entry rather than a finance company or fleet sale, you have to ask yourself why the owner did not try to sell privately.
 
Finance company sales and emergency services auctions are really the best place to find a bargain.  If you are looking for a big tourer or commuter bike, you wont find cheaper Hondas, Triumphs and BMWs at services auctions (providing you don’t mind white, orange or yellow).  They may be high mileage, but will usually have been properly serviced.  I recently spotted a 3 year old ex-Police Pan European, which went at auction for £1,800, approximately 50% of it’s value.

Key tips and Gotchas

• You wont have much time to look the bike over in advance and definitely wont get a test ride. In some ways this puts the non mechanically minded on a level playing field, as all you can really do is listen to the engine, check for fluid leaks while it’s standing and check the general condition. Get a copy of the used bike guide to make sure you know what the bike is worth.  Don’t pay too much more than the low price in the guide, particularly if the bike is high mileage.
• You’ll need a method to pay the deposit before you bid, either cash or switch is acceptable.  The deposit is normally £500 or 10%.  On top of the auction price you also have to pay a buyers fee, which will normally guarantee that the vehicle is not stolen or subject to a finance arrangement.
• Don’t buy a bike without the V5 logbook if you want to ride it within the next few weeks. Few lots will have road tax, which you cannot buy without the V5, so if you do go for a bike without a logbook, you’ll need a trailer to get it home. It is not uncommon for the local police to run checks outside the day after an auction. While ex-services bikes will normally be well maintained, they’ll typically need some electrical wiring expertise, as the extra equipment is often not carefully removed. Be prepared to spend some of the money you save on a good thorough service, particularly if you are not mechanically competent.
• The best time to go to an auction is during a normal work day, as school holidays and weekends are popular and therefore secure the highest prices.  Taking a friend will also give you another pair of eyes to see who's bidding and look out for bargains.

Buying privately

The private ads are where you'll find plenty of bargains and one or two wrecks.  Here are some tips to securing the best buys:

Early bird

Motorcycle News and Auto Trader's Bike trader are probably the best places to look for used bikes in the £1,000 - £5,000 price range, if you're budget is less than that, try your local free ads (e.g. Loot or Friday ad) .  Buy it on the day of publication (MCN is Wednesday).  If you can, arrange to view any bikes you are interested in that night.  Most people wont be able to view until a day later (or the weekend), so you'll have plenty of time to check the bikes history out and negotiate a price.  If you want to arrange a test ride, then you'll need to get insurance sorted, so you may want to do an initial viewing and agree a sale price, subject to a test ride and HPI check.

Arranging a viewing 

Although many small traders are honest enough not to pose as private sellers, one trick to catch them out, is to say "I'm phoning about the motorcycle, is it still for sale?"  If they've got more than one on offer, they'll reply "which one?"  Always arrange the viewing at the sellers home, don't agree to meet in a car park, as you'll have no idea if the seller is genuine.  Before you agree to view, ask about mileage, number of owners any damage, rust,  service history etc. as this may save you a wasted journey.

Inspecting the bike

If you know very little about motorbikes, its well worth taken a mate with you to help you control any enthusiasm and give the bike a second opinion.  However, you don't need to be a mechanical genius to spot the basics.  If it's clean and tidy, then the chances are it's been looked after.  Ask the seller to show you round the bike and explain the controls - this will tell you how familiar they are with the bike. Make sure you give it a thorough look over.

Plenty of bikes get scuffed or knocked over, but this doesn't mean they are ready to be thrown away.  Fairings, levers and mirror scuffs are OK and likely to help you get the price down.  More serious damage may indicate a crash.  Check for non cosmetic damage like cracks and damage to mechanical or structural parts.

Items to check

Put the bike on the centre stand if it has one and look for the following. If the bike only has a side stand, then you may need someone to hold it:

• Handlebars - These are easy to bend and can be costly to replace.  Are both bars even and straight?
• Bent Forks & Fork Play - Look down the length of the forks a check for any bends which may have been caused by a collision.  Hold the front wheel between your knees and twist the bars - Is there any play?
• Levers and pedals - Check all the levers and pedals to ensure that they are all firmly attached.  Look for excessive wear which may indicate high mileage (compare with recorded mileage).
• Headrace - Lift the front wheel by getting someone to push down on the seat (on centre stand) gently turn the bars from the left to right and back.  If it feels notchy when it passes centre, then the headrace needs replacing.  If it's stiff it may just need adjusting.
• Exhaust & Mountings - In a crash the exhaust can sometime get pushed into the frame.  Is the exhaust or frame bent?  Also check the joins by placing your hand near them while the engine is running .  Is gas escaping? A new exhaust could easily cost £500. 
• Wheels & Brakes - Lift the front wheel and make sure it spins freely.  Apply the front brake, release and re-check the brakes (a few times).  Do the same to the rear.  Do the wheels bind?  If so you could be looking at replacement pads, bearing or callipers.  If available lay a straight edge along the sides of the front and rear wheel and check that they are aligned.  Also Look for dents in the rim which may have been caused from curbing at speed.  Wheel dents can be corrected (see links), but a new wheel may cost over £300.
• Raced and abused - Check the wheel rims, shocks and forks for excessive wear.  thrashing  or racing a bike will eat tyres and suspension very quickly, so if the wear looks out of place with the immaculate paint work, then the bike may have had a hard life.
• Electrics & Unusual wiring - Check all the lights and switches work properly, don't forget to give them a tap with your hand to check there are no lose wires.  Extra switches or fans, can sometime point to electrical or cooling problems.  As a minimum check the reason behind any unusual switches or wiring.
• Frame & Alignment - There are a number of ways to check the frame and wheel alignment, but most require a long plank or similar.  However for bikes fitted with front and rear disc brakes a simple right angled spirit  level is all you need.  Position the bike so that the rear disc is level,  then position the front disc to be the same.  Now check handle bars, if they are not aligned, there can be several reasons: the front and rear wheels are miss aligned, the frame or forks are damaged, the front or rear discs are warped, the swing arm is damaged.
• Rust - If the bike's been out in the wet, then rust is a possibility,  you need to check for rust that's just surface and can be cleaned off or more serious structural rust.  If it can be rubbed off with a wet finger then a good cleaner should remove most of it.  If it crumbles when you poke it - walk away.
• Wear - Motorcycle parts are fairly expensive and can be fiddly to replace, particularly on faired bikes.  A recent Bike magazine calaculated that a bike costing £6000 new, would run to £25,000 if it was build from parts.  The costs can really pile up if you need to replace mechanical items.  Motorcycles must have a minimum or 1 mm tread across 3/4 of the width of the tyre and usually cost over £100 per pair Are the tyres in poor condition?  Also check If the chain is stretched or has tight spots, If the brakes are worn or discs scored.  Each item could cost a £100+ to fix.  Check the suspension 

Paperwork check

Once you're satisfied that the machine is in order, then you'll need to check the paperwork

V5 & MOT certificate 

The V5 is the vehicle identification document.  If the bike is over 3 years, it will also need a valid MOT certificate.  You need to satisfy that the document matches the machine on sale.  Check Engine/frame number, Make, model, Year and colour and obviously the registration.  See the DVLAs website for more details on checking V5s.

Service book and owners manual 

Do the service stamp dates and mileage match the required interval, can the owner back up the service with receipts.  If you have time, phone the dealer who serviced the bike last and verify the information is correct.  Stamps are easily falsely obtained, so it's worth checking.

HPI check

For £12.50 - £20 you can get a check done that will identify if the bike's stolen, a write off or has outstanding finance on.  It's well worth it, as you stand to loose your investment if the bike turns out to be stolen.  One company that offers this service is  Equifax HPI check.

Completing the sale

To transfer keepers you will need to ensure the vendor completes the V5 with your details.  The V5 explains on the back which sections you need to fill out.  It is now the responsibility of the seller (vendor) to transfer the bike, as this stops people buying bikes and not registering them.  You will need the transfer slip as proof until your new V5 is posted to you.  You must ensure that the details are correct, as obtaining a new document is inconvenient and suspicious when you come to sell the bike.  You should also obtain a receipt sometimes refered to as a bill of sale for the purchase (a simple signed note detailing what, when and how much and by who to who will do) in case the owner attempts to report it stolen after you've paid for it.  Remember the V5 is NOT proof of ownership.

When you come to sell the bike it is essential that you create a bill of sale that is signed by both you and the purchaser, with both parties retaining a copy.  The bill of sale should include: Vendor name & address, buyers name and address, make, model, registration number, VIN plate number and the mileage.  You should also aim to include the following text:

>Sold as seen  tried, tested and approved by the purchaser, without any representations warranties or conditions expressed or implied whatsover. 

This basically protects you from the buyer coming back the next day with a fault and demanding a refund.

It's worth noting that under The Road Traffic Act 1988 - Section 75 you have a duty not to sell a vehicle in an unroadworthy condition, unless (under paragraph 6) you can prove that you believed it was not going to be used on the road or it was not going to be used on the road until it had been repaired.  Therefore if you are selling a vehicle that you know is unroadworthy and have made that clear to the buyer, you should include a note stating that the buyer understands this and intends to use it off-road or carry out appropriate repairs.